Day 2 Lisbon-My Way on the Camino Portuguese

Friday, April 5, 2024

I arrived in Lisbon about 10:45 a.m. and headed for baggage claim, hoping my backpack arrived intact.

My first sign of the Camino was a scallop shell design in the tile floor leading to baggage claim. I took that as a good sign. I was already on the right path.

After retrieving my bag, I considered walking to my hotel to save the cost of a taxi. I was trying to keep expenses down on this Camino, and a walk would save me about twenty-five euros. The hotel was only 6.5 kilometers away—roughly a 90-minute walk. But airports aren’t exactly designed for pedestrians, and safety was a concern. I was also tired. I don’t sleep well sitting upright on overnight flights. At best, I get a few minutes here and there. I came to a logical conclusion and took a taxi.

Now that I was in Europe, I needed to get some euros. I had five left over from my last Camino, but that wouldn’t get me far. I decided to skip the airport ATM, where the fees are usually higher. Instead, I relied on some online research I’d done in advance and found a bank ATM just a block from my hotel.

I took a taxi to the hotel and used a credit card to pay for the ride.

For my first night stay, I used IHG Priority points I earned to book a room at the Holiday Inn Express Lisbon, Avenida Liberdade for one night and to take advantage of their free continental breakfast. After settling into my room, I headed for the ATM and then made my way to the Lisbon Cathedral to get a pilgrim credential. The gift shop at the cathedral, where the credentials are available, was open from 3 to 6 p.m. If I didn’t get the credential, it would delay my start in the morning. There was no time for me to relax. The pilgrim credential or passport is an essential document needed to collect a sello, a stamp received along the walk to prove that you had walked the “Way.” The stamp is available at cathedrals, tourist offices, and many cafes. The completed credential is presented to the agent at the Pilgrim’s Office in Santiago de Compostela. He confirms your starting point and then inspects the credential. If everything is in order, he will print out a Compostela, a certificate of completion. Your first name will be translated and printed in Latin on the Compostela. Also available is a certificate for the distance traveled.

I enjoyed walking through Lisbon’s historic Santa Maria Maior district to the cathedral as an opportunity to see a bit of Lisbon before departing in the morning. My plans were to spend two nights in Lisbon on the way home so that I could experience more of the city.

During my walk along the Avenida da Liberdade, I spotted a bright yellow trolley taking riders up a steep road and wondered what was at the top of the hill. If I had more time, I might have taken a ride to find out. I later found out it was the Elevador da Glória connecting Restauradores Square with Rua San Pedro de Alcántara in Bairro Alto.

I walked through a plaza toward the ornate facade of the Hotel Avenida Palace, a five-star luxury hotel in the heart of Lisbon that opened in 1892. It was designed by a leading Portuguese architect, José Luis Monteiro, who also designed the façade for the nearby Rossio Train Station.^[i] It was an impressive sight with pillars, arches, grand paned windows, and wrought-iron balconies on the upper floors. High-end fashion store windows flanked the entrance to the lobby.

I was enthralled by the European architecture, history, and culture. I looked forward to having more time to visit Lisbon when I returned for my flight home.

When I arrived at the Lisbon Cathedral, officially the Cathedral of Saint Mary Major, or in Portuguese, Santa Maria Maior de Lisboa, I went inside to find where to purchase the pilgrim credential.

The cathedral was not as large as some I’d visited on the Camino Frances, but it was an exemplary example of medieval architecture. A rose window above the arched entrance was flanked by fortress-like bell towers. A defensive crenulated wall ringed the tower tops. Inside arches, columns, and vaulted ceilings framed the cross-shaped nave for congregation seating. It was a beautiful, holy space. Just inside the entrance, against the side wall, was a small gift counter. I purchased a credential for myself and one for Pam for three euros each. The woman behind the counter stamped the top center of the first page and wrote in the date. I had the first official sello on my credential.

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